How Do I Reseed The Lawn?

First of all, we have to talk about dates. We know that it is ugly to see it as it is, full of bald spots, yellow in areas but do not rush; some seasons are conducive to the task.

As you can imagine, the beginning of spring turns out to be the ideal date, although not the only one.

It is the moment when everything germinates almost effortlessly. Fall can also be if you don’t want to wait for the following spring.

Allow time for the seed to settle and germinate little by little (depending on weather).

Suppose you have to remove dead areas of the lawn. In that case, it is best with a hoe, eliminating the affected area, including at the root level (we also eliminate possible seeds of competing species).

Once we remove the affected areas, all you have to do is aerate the soil thoroughly (it will take longer to compact again), level, plant, and cover with a suitable substrate.

A little roller or similar to compact the substrate as necessary and water usually or slightly more at first. The seed will do the rest.

The Choice Of Grass And Mixtures

Typically, according to earth development, what is usually done is to make a mixture of seeds from different varieties of grass.

This is done because another variety covers the deficiencies of one variety. The deficiencies of this variety are covered by the next, forming a sod with a group of very positive characteristics.

Imagine, for example, that you plant a specific variety of grass that takes a long time to germinate, and you mix it with another variety, less attractive but more resistant and with much faster germination.

You will have grass that will grow faster from the mixture of these two varieties. Then, the strongest (more resistant and with fewer needs will be the one that wins the battle for the space of your garden.

Some Interesting Mixes Are As Follows:


Festuca Arundinacea  (85%)

English ray grass  (10%)

Poa pratense (5%)

In our opinion, a complete lawn, with the protagonism of a widely used variety (Festuca Arundinacea), in combination with the two remaining varieties that increase the speed of growth (which we have commented on before). Think that Poa pratense is often used a lot on soccer fields.

English ray grass

A Lawn To Cover Shady Areas

Festuca rubra semireptile (30%)

Festuca rubra reptile (50%)

Perennial Lolium (20%)

These varieties allow their use in shady areas, either because you have a garden attached to the house or because you have many trees with dense foliage and want to install a lawn. By the way, that we do not forget in the future to tell you about the irrigation of the lawn. How it would be planned and the different irrigation systems (not everything is sprinkler).

A Lawn For Hot Mediterranean Areas With Little Maintenance

Festuca Arundinacea (80%)

Cynodon Dactylon (10%)

Ray grass English (10%)

This grass is perfect for, as we have said, areas where there is no excess water, and for social and environmental awareness, it is an exciting option to choose. It has a lower water consumption than the rest of the mixtures; it supports high temperatures well (but not low ones, it must be taken into account) and saline irrigation. An off-road lawn.

A Lawn Garden To Step On And Play On

Who knows if your son/daughter will be a star like Cristiano Ronaldo (men’s soccer) Yoreli Rincón (women’s soccer) in the future? Whether or not the case, if you want to have a lawn where you can walk on it, lie down, or let the little ones in the house play on it, the most appropriate is a mixture resistant to trampling.

English Ray Grass (80%)

Poa pratense (20%)